Ciao Cusco. Te Amo.

I left Cusco yesterday afternoon.  The last two days were the best yet of my whole six weeks.  On Wednesday I went out to lunch with my two favorite teachers Wilfredo and José.  We went to a traditional Peruvian restaurant and I ordered trucha (trout).  As a kid I ate so many delicious trout camping with my family so for me it is the classic comfort food.  The banter and Cusqueña were a delight and we enjoyed great amounts of both. 

Thursday Lili and Tomás invited me out to lunch and we got to go to La Cusqueñita, a beautiful restaurant that served traditional food and had entertainment of traditional dances like the ones I enjoyed at Centro Qosqo.  I finally got to try Chicha (the fermented corn drink).  It was mixed with strawberry juice and was delicious!  At one point the dancers came out into the audience and pulled people up on to the stage and guess who ended up there?  Yikes that was fun and a rush- and Lili got plenty of pictures and we feasted and laughed and enjoyed a wonderful meal together.

Friday I had my last morning of class with Yusay and my fellow student Gertrude.  The school didn't have any electricity and neither did that part of the city so our classroom was very tranquil but the street noise was incredible with honking and police whistles trying to control the traffic.  After our mid morning break it was time to receive my certificate and give my goodbye speech.  I made it nearly half way through my speech before choking up with tears but managed to finish it out.  Another student played a song on guitar and then Johnny (from the cooking class forever ago) played a guitar song with quite a surprise.  He turned the guitar around so the strings were facing him and then he dropped his pants and shorts and played a dramatic and thrilling guitar solo!  Wow were we laughing and he was grinning and his face was bright red (but that could have just been sunburn). 

Everyone was silent  from shock at the end so I got a chance to urge everyone to give a good applause and then we took pictures.  I got a picture with all of my teachers, Yusey, José, Wilfredo and Alberto.  Wilfredo and José also signed my certificate explaining that the director's signature was insufficient and that my certicate wouldn't really count otherwise.

Yusay took me and Gertrude on a nice walking tour after the speeches which was a good thing because it was time for me to say goodbye to my friends at the school which was nearly impossible.  We had a great tour around the city and I was surprised to discover some plazas that I hadn't yet explored.  Six weeks isn't nearly enough time to be in this lovely city and I could only leave knowing that someday I will return. 

After lunch with my host family I headed off to the airport.  It didn't take long to move from teary eyed goodbyes into traveler Jen.  I got my bag checked in and my ticket and there at the top of the escalator were Tio Tomás and Tia Lili waiting to tell me goodbye.  So I pretty much lost it with crying and they just smiled and hugged me and gave me kisses and sent me off in the way that only such lovely people could. 

I am waiting for my last flight from Dallas to Seattle where Dan and Kate and Alan will pick me up.  There aren't words for me to describe the richness of emotions I feel for all of my great fortune in this moment. 

Thank you to everyone, all my friends and teachers in Cusco and to all my friends and family waiting at home who have made this whole experience possible.  I came to Cusco to learn a language and am returning home with gifts richer than I could have ever imagined.
Can't wait to see Dan and the kids!  Soon, very soon.
Love to all,
Jen

Thank You Camino Nuevo

Today was my last afternoon volunteering at Camino Nuevo.  I brought some clothes, lots of toiletries, another pile of books, crackers, and some money.  All of these were gifts from my friends, family and church.  Last week Mom and I got to bring out a blender and some kitchen supplies.  When I first arrived to start helping I noticed that the kitchen supplies were a bit sparse.  I asked the cooking teacher what supplies they could use and she said "a blender" and then laughed like she was asking for a diamond ring.  Then she said the school could use cutting boards, knives and a colander.  Since my church had given me money to use wherever I found the need, I knew right away that I was going to surprise the school with all the supplies plus the diamond ring, I mean blender.  When I arrived today teacher Ana showed me the cute cover she had sewn for the new blender.  I told her that was the best dressed blender I'd ever seen (and I wasn't exaggerating!).  I know they will make good use of the blender.  The teachers in this school are incredibly hard working and kind and it has brought me so much joy to know them and the students.

Today after snack time we turned on music and danced.  I think I may have gotten over my fear of dancing, because we were busting some moves and having so much fun!  One couple brought a huge smile to my face.  They were so excited to dance and then when they reached out to hold hands they both just stood there holding hands with huge smiles and forgot to actually dance.  I also appreciated that girls could dance with girls, and sometimes three people danced together, and at the end we were all dancing in a big group.  What fun!

Jesenia and Rossana busting some moves

After almost all the kids went home the teachers surprised me with a beautiful card from the kids and teachers and with a little party!  The card was signed with a finger print from each student.  I was wondering why the kids had red ink on their fingers!  The note was so lovely, it says "With much love for a friend who delighted us with her presence every day with love and care for all the children at Camino Nuevo".  Teacher Ana made a delicious drink, dark beer blended with condensed milk and a bit of sugar.  Creamy and wonderful, like a root beer float but better!  The blender was broken in beautifully and with a spirit of celebration.  We all stood in the kitchen together and exchanged emails and I got to tell all the teachers that they have a place to stay if they ever want to come to Oregon.  I wonder if anyone will take me up on the invite?  I certainly hope so, it would be a such a gift to get to bring a bit of Cusco to Portland.

Alfredo, Mercedes, Eliana, Maria Elena, Me, Diana, Falriola, Rocío, Eliana, and Ana

We all walked out to the bus together under the light of the moon.  With a grateful heart and tears in my eyes I said goodbye to the teachers at Camino Nuevo.  I had already said goodbye to the students earlier in the evening, and now I have a lovely card to remember everyone by.  I truly hope to return to this school in the future, but before then I hope to send some of my amazing talented friends to Cusco so they can support Camino Nuevo and feel the love and see the impact of this important program on the children and families of Cusco.

This was the first of many goodbyes that I will have to say this week.  There is a lump in my throat, but I think it is just my heart swollen big by all the love I have experienced here.

Wishing each of you love and appreciation,

Jen

Fútbol, Neil Young and Eddie Vedder

Yesterday I saw Mom to the airport.  With a happy heart I sent her along knowing that our time together here in Cusco was magical and that she would be with my little family upon her return.  Next stop, Lili and Tomás's house for lunch and then off to the fútbol game.  I decided to give Cienciano one more chance after the terrible 0-0 game I saw two weeks ago.  That game was ultimately so frustrating that I left wanting to smoke a cigarette and drink some hard liquor. 

Tio Tomás, Florencia, grinning chica, Tia Lili

This time I was lucky enough to go with Tomás, Lili, and Lili's brother Florencio.  We had great seats in the middle of the action and Lili brought in some cold Chicha Morada for each of us (she thinks of everything!).  When we entered the stadium I heard some people yelling my name.  It was a nice surprise to see a group of students from my school at their first soccor game in Cusco! 

This time instead of a 0-0 game it ended up being another tie 2-2.  Instead of wanting to smoke and drink afterwards I felt like taking a long cozy nap.  We walked together towards my Cusco home.  I asked Lili Tomás and Florencio if they thought there was more drinking after a win or after a loss.  They all agreed that it was the same amount just the difference of laughter or tears.  What fun to sit at the stadium with them.  Also, the side we sat on had a whole new bunch of dirty vocabulary.  The crowd was WILD often yelling and cursing their own team at each mistake.  Admittedly, Cienciano did make a lot this time, and when they left the stadium their own fans threw things at them!  But no worries, the police were there as always with their riot sheilds at the ready.  It was thrilling and intense and I will miss going to games on Sunday afternoons.  I'm thinking I need to start going to hockey games when I return to Portland.  Who's in?

Tonight I am listening to YouTube videos of Neil Young and Eddie Vedder.  It's time to get ready to return home.  This week I requested Yusey, the lovely teacher I head my third week here.  She's so great, plus there's a German woman in my class.  She has AMAZING grammar but is shy to speak.  You can imagine shyness isn't my challenge here, but I'd kill for her grammar! 

I was glad to talk to the family in Portland tonight.  Mom is home safe, and Dad, Ed, Dan, Alan, Kate and Aly were all eating pancakes for dinner together tonight.  What a lovely family I have to return home to this weekend!
Love to all, and special extra big thanks to Aly for helping me find this place and for sharing her Aunt and Uncle with me.  Un beso Aly, te amo!
Jen

M.P.

Today was the long awaited trip to Machu Picchu.  This is one of those days that is hard to put into words but you know I'll try.  We started out early Friday morning.  The original plan was to take a bus to Ollantaytambo and then the train to Aguas Calientes which is the town just outside of Machu Picchu.  As luck would have it we got to take the train from really close by Cusco all the way.  The journey went all along the Urubamba river through farm land and then through an impressive gorge. 

We arrived in Aguas Calientes and got to our hospedaje just in time for a big rainstorm.  I climbed into bed (it was only 11am!) and took a good long nap with the rain pounding down.  Mom left me a nice note saying she was off exploring and would see me for lunch which was going to be served at 2pm.  She came back with all sorts of details about the town.  There were small walkways all around but no cars can drive in the city.  The river was less than a block from our place.  That evening we met with our guide Eder and he gave us the scoop for the next day.  We would get to tour M.P. with a group that had walked one day on the Inca trail.  We decided as a group to have breakfast at 5:15 the next morning so we could take an early bus and watch the sun rise at Machu Picchu.  When we got to the bus line there were already huge busses loading up people and about a hundred people waiting!

When we arrived we walked up a steep trail with many huge steps.  After about fifteen minutes we peaked at the viewpoint.  And there we were, Machu Picchu.  I was actually nervous that I would be a bit disappointed.  Geez, after thinking about this place and hearing so many things, what if I got there and felt let down?  I didn't have to worry about a thing.  It really was more amazing than I could have imagined and much larger.  Not only are the buildings and stone work amazing, the entire area has mountains so large that they seem impossible.  But they're not, and there I was standing in the middle of it all.

Our guide took us on a tour over two hours long walking through the whole site.  Just when I thought we'd seen the coolest part we would turn a corner and discover some other amazing thing.  After the tour Mom and I found a cool place to rest and enjoyed a package of Oreos.  We sat for a long time and just marveled that we really were in this place. 

At one point during our tour I had a very clear experience of Déjá Vu.  I breathed it in, enjoyed the sensation while it lasted, and felt curious about where it came from.  The weather was absolutely perfect- the day before the whole site was clowded in but for our day everything was wide open.  So glad I got to experience this wonder with my mom and glad we are "home" in Cusco safe and sound.

Love to all,

Jen

Tourists, Tourists!

Mom and I had an awesome day visiting Pisac a town about an hour long bus ride outside of Cusco.  I asked for a seat near the front and I wasn't disappointed.  We were sitting in the two seats just to the right of the driver!  What a view we had.  Mom was really blissed out and the whole way we talked about all the different things we were seeing and it was so wonderful to share this place with her.  In Pisac we pretty much walked directly to a restaurant that was recommended to me.  It is called Ulrike's and is run by a woman from Germany.  This was my third attempt at cheesecake in Peru and it was by far the best.  In fact, it was the best cheesecake I've ever had!  After gorging on cheesecake (oh yeah, and lunch) we headed to the market together.  It's such a colorful feast for the eyes.  On Sundays there is lots of produce as well as the amazing art and handcrafts.

On the way back to Cusco we stopped at the animal sanctuary so Mom could see it too.  It was just as fun for me the second time and I got to hold a puppy again and this time the hairless dog jumped up on me and tried to give me a kiss.  Bliss out!  The condors are just amazing and while in the enclosure we got to watch them fly from end to end when a caretaker brought out the food bucket.  While we were in there a Peruvian family also stopped to visit and a young child in that family shouted out in a cheerful voice "TURISTAS, TURISTAS!" referring to us!  Hanging out in the big condor cage we probably did seem like part of the exhibit, but I'm glad we weren't eating old rotten meat for dinner!

Mom started Spanish classes today and I was so impressed by her willingness to jump right in.  My teachers from past weeks as well as the school staff were eager to meet mom which made me feel really good.  After school today I met Lili and Tomás for lunch in town.  Mom had to opt out because her tummy is giving her a bit of trouble so I got a taxi for her and our new housemate Jim and sent them on their way home to rest.  We had a nice visit (as always, I just love those guys!) and then when the bill came so did a box of chicken.  Lili had ordered it so I could take it home to Mom.  So thoughtful, gotta appreciate the incredible generosity I am benefitting from here.  Someday when Luis comes to study in the US I hope we can make some awesome food for him.  He's so nice though that he probably won't even complain when it's mac & cheese night.

Berenice, Roxana y Yesenia enjoying snack time.

This afternoon I went to Camino Nuevo.  I took a backpack full of books and a dozen boxes of crayons.  These were gifts from my church, Lincoln Street United Methodist Church and also from my Mom.  The school was delighted, and I know they will be used with much appreciation and joy.  I got to help in the kitchen today which is sometimes cooking and other times practical skills.  We worked on putting on clothing with buttons and zippers.  Several of the teens also practiced washing their faces and hair.  After getting all wet then the teachers help them dry themselves and they sit down at the table and comb their hair.  There's a mirror that the teachers hold up and say "look at you, you are so handsome/beautiful".  The teachers say their names and help them look at themselves.  It's a touching time of the day for me and a time that some of the biggest smiles happen.  I enjoyed helping give hand massages to two girls after they had their face and hair washing.  They both seemed so relaxed and appreciative and we all enjoyed the scented lotion that the teacher pulled out of her purse. 

Most of the kids in this program are autistic and some have Down Syndrome.  It is a new experience that was WAY out of my comfort zone at first but I have been welcomed into the group by the very hard working group of teachers.  Tomorrow I will bring my lice comb (I do appologize, because likely your head is now itching!) and work on one boy who has just started at the school.  Today the teachers helped him get a bath and tomorrow I will give him a manicure and pedicure.  Actually I will coach him in this because part of his job is learning to take care of himself. 

So now you have a bit more of a picture of my afternoons at Camino Nuevo.  Hopefully Mom will go with me tomorrow when we get to deliver supplies for the kitchen.  I am having a new experience in my Spanish class this week as I have a new teacher (Alberto) and for the first time other students in the class (Candace 67 from Colorado and Isabela 26 from Brazil).  I also have homework so I suppose I better sign off and get to work! 

Love to all, and if you're game consider looking in the mirror and noticing how handsome or beautiful you really are,
-Jen

a Carnation, a Cemetery, and Cheesecake

Yesterday Wilfredo and I celebrated the end of our week of death and went to the cemetery.  It did just happen to be Friday, April 13th.  We took a taxi and arrived at the oldest cemetery in Cusco.  It is next to a hospital (no longer in use) and a mental hospital (still in use).  To make the experience more complete I bought a carnation at the entrance.  A whole boquet was two soles so we asked for just one carnation which was just one sole.  We both must have been a bit flumoxed because that was no bargain but I just paid the sole and walked away with one simple carnation.  Before entering the cemetery Wilfredo wanted to show me a public health clinic nearby so I walked like a dork holding the carnation.  The coolest thing was we ran into a car cemetery of sorts- three old wrecked up hearses outside the gates.

We wandered all through the cemetery.  It was more like lots of outdoor buildings.  Each grave had a little display window where the families had put momentos.  Wilfredo told me how the families keep paying for the space each year and then when there's no one left who pays the coffins are exhumed and the remains are put in a mass grave.  That way there continues to be space for more bodies.  I have to admit it seems quite practical to me.

I found a very interesting set of stairs and braved the dark to explore a tomb that was underground.  I found a grave to leave my carnation and I felt satisfied that the visit to the cemetery was complete.  Here's a picture of me coming out of the grave there.

My week of classes was such an interesting combination.  I had decided that I wanted to talk about death and funerals and cemeteries this week, but I didn't know who my teacher would be.  Wilfredo turned out to be the perfect fit.  He was very comfortable with the subject and also helpful in discussing all sorts of ideas and curiosities and plenty of blunt opinions.  He also has a very dark sense of humor and is a fan of the show Dexter.  During the week we also talked about cheesecake and where to find the ideal cheesecake in Cusco. So, after exploring the cemetery we went back to town and had cheesecake and coffee. 

Last night Mom and I got to take Lili, Tomás and Luis out to pizza.  Tio Tomás was very tricky and managed to pay the taxi driver, but I was pleased to be equally tricky and be able to buy pizza and beer for us all before he could figure out I was paying.  We had a great visit and left the pizza restaurant stuffed and happy.  Tia Lili is a busy woman with work and family, but before we parted she invited us to meet for lunch at a restaurant on Monday and to her house for lunch on Wednesday! 

Luis really wants to improve his English so we talked about how ideal Portland would be for him to do an immersion.  What fun it would be to host him in Portland! 

Today Mom and I are going to explore the town together.

Love to you all, and at Arnold's request, kisses and hugs to all as well!
-Jen

Mom's Here!

Yesterday morning I took a taxi to airrport nice and early to pick Mom up.  It was so exciting waiting outside with all the other eager families and people with signs.  There were many nevous faces exiting the airport, but Mom just had this big grin on her face as soon as I saw her.  Would you believe that the person who was supposed to meet her at the airport in Lima and take her to a hotel for the night DIDN'T?!  Mom checked back in the waiting area for about 2 hours and then finally decided to just sleep in the airport until her early flight the next morning.  The amazing thing about this is that she was so completely mellow about the whole thing!  Am I surrounded by amazing women or what!  I can't wait for mom and Tia Lili to met.  Even though they don't have a language in common I have no doubts that they will make friends.  

This next picture is for my brother.  It says "Your police friends are here to serve you". It is the sign at the airport welcoming everyone to Cuzco.

I am in the middle of an awesome week of classes.  Fortunately I have the teacher from my first week, Wilfredo.  He is very good friends with my teacher from the second week so we are having great fun making fun of José together.  He told me one challenge he has is getting bored with things so I told him not to worry he only has two more days with me.  He said he was counting down the minutes.  This is quite a contrast from José who told me I was Pan de Dios (God bread?) and that he missed me already on our last day.  After Wilfredo told me about counting down the hours I told him he is no José.  I think I will make fun of Wilfredo for the rest of this week instead of José.

I really can't complain about Wilfredo though, because bless this guy's heart, he is willing to spend the WHOLE week with me talking about death.  Yes, this is death week in my class because I realized I am very unprepaired to work with Spanish speaking families at The Dougy Center when I return.  The Dougy Center, for those of you who don't know, is a program for children who have had a parent or sibling die.  I have volunteered there on and off for the last six years, but when I return I will be facilitating a Spanish group.  So, this week I am building my vocabulary and general knowledge about death and funerals and everything related.  It is fascinating and I am learning much more than I anticipated.  Friday we will go to a cemetery together. 

One last note, I have spent three days now at Camino Nuevo, the school for disabled children.  I am working in the afternoons with teens and have had an incredible time. It is WAY out of my comfort zone, but the teachers have been so welcoming adn kind to me, I couldn't hope for any better.  Next week Mom and I will go there on Monday and Tuesday together which I am really looking forward to.

Okay, off to the showers.  Mom is snoozing away, she has some serious sleep to catch up on!

Love to all, and kisses to Dan and Kate and Alan,
Jen